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Pre-Fall 2020: #BaumBackToBack

June 03 2020 – Mercantile London

Pre-Fall 2020: #BaumBackToBack

Pre-Fall 2020: #BaumBackToBack

 

 The Pre Autumn 2020 collection "Back to Back" by Baum Und Pferdgarten is inspired by the work of the Hamptons-based artists Jane Wilson and Jane Freilicher. 

In the late 1950’s American artists Jane Wilson and Jane Freilicher shared a house in the Hamptons for several summers. They painted together in the same room “side by side or back or back” both focusing on the same source material but each on their own path, executing highly individualised results.

They both moved to New York in the early 1950’s and became professionally and personally involved with a group of poets, painters, dancers and musicians, (sometimes referred to as the New York School) who provided inspiration and collaborated on various works.

 

 

 Jane Freilicher and Jane Wilson, Water Mill, New York, 1962 Photo: John Jonas Gruen


Freilicher described the unique friendship between herself and Jane in a 1987 interview;

“There was some sort of affinity in our painting, but it wasn’t that we influenced each other.”

The seascapes and marshes of the Hamptons were inspiration for both artists but their styles were distinctly different. A renowned colourist and credited as one of the major proponents of “painterly realism,” Freilicher’s landscapes had a very personal perspective. Expanses of nature were often framed by curtains or window sills and include interior elements like vases, tables and mirrors.

 

 View Over the Pool by Jane Freilicher 1980

View Over the Pool by Jane Freilicher 

 

Wilson had begun to move further toward abstraction and by the mid-1950s was increasingly focusing on producing expressionist landscapes. Her view point tended to be from memory with the landscapes atmospheric and evocative; such as storm clouds gathering over an ocean, the luminous hues of a horizon with mist gathering and blurring the view.

 

Yesterday's Clouds by Jane Wilson via Painting the Hamptons

Yesterday's Clouds by Jane Wilson

 

Baum recognised and drew on the resemblance between the long-standing friendship of the two Janes and themselves as Creative Directors. Similar to the two artists, Rikke and Helle use the same source of inspiration but take it in individual directions. This results in otheir unique formula of harmonious collections that contain unexpected playful contrasts where feminine meets masculine, neutrals offset prints and streamline sits with flamboyance.

“Like Jane and Jane we work ‘side by side or back to back’ on almost everything. We share our differing ideas and try to capture as many of them as possible in the collections. That is where the true Baum style comes from. Our contrasting styles have always inspired each other.”

Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave, Creative Directors, Baum Und Pferdgarten.

 

Pre Fall 20 gathers and blends the works of these two mid-century artists with the area of the Hamptons itself. The palette draws inspiration from the Janes’ own palettes; soft hues of apricot, barely pink and vanilla yellow are contrasted with bright orange, cobalt blue and fuchsia, while ochre, olive green and tobacco ground the collection. Hand-painted floral prints - Hampton Garden, are inspired by Freilicher’s own floral depictions; with their slight naivety and clustered composition.

 

Baum Und Pferdgarten Hampton Garden print in black

Baum Und Pferdgarten Antoinette Black Hampton Garden Dress

 

Baum Und Pferdgarten Hampton Garden print in white

Baum Und Pferdgarten Medora White Hampton Garden Top

Nautical stripes are reminiscent of deck chairs, beach towels, and the artists’ personal style. Pen-drawn sea shells, either scattered or layered in two tones , is indicative of the keepsakes we bring home from the seashore. An all over print of swirling paint dots gives a nod to the painter’s mixing palettes and paint covered aprons. Digital prints of flowers in rigid rows represent the more manicured side of the modern Hamptons.

 

Baum Und Pferdgarten Jocelina Black Tiger Shell Dress at Mercantile London

Baum Und Pferdgarten Jocelina Black Tiger Shell Dress (on right)

 

Baum Und Pferdgarten Carmalia Blue Tiger Shell Knit at Mercantile London

Baum Und Pferdgarten Carmalia Blue Tiger Shell Knit

 

The fabric and style selection of the Pre 20 collection is diverse. Crisp organic cotton sits alongside silk twill. Heavy dry organic twill contrasts a more fluid metallic shine. Sporty viscose juxtaposes sequined lace. There are midi A-line dresses with a lot of width, and shorter styles with cinched waists and V-necks. Sleeves were a design focus with many different cuts; balloon sleeves, short puff sleeves and a one-shouldered long sleeve.

 

Baum Und Pferdgarten Alma Peacoat Dress at Mercantile London

Baum Und Pferdgarten Alma Peacoat Dress

 

New design details include drawstrings, lace trims and tucked features. Straw bucket hats and resin chain belts draw inspiration from the era that the Janes lived in, and new mesh bags are inspired by the beaches of the Hamptons.

 

Baum Und Pferdgarten Liza Vermillion Orange Straw Hat at Mercantile London

Baum Und Pferdgarten Liza Vermillion Orange Straw Hat

Baum Und Pferdgarten Liza Mosstone Green Straw Hat at Mercantile London

Baum Und Pferdgarten Liza Mosstone Green Straw Hat

 

This season is a reflection of many of the cornerstones that define the Baum Und Pferdgarten brand; partnership, individualism and longevity.

“We love the lifelong friendship of Jane Wilson and Jane Freilicher, women who shared so many similarities but had divergent styles. Often it is our differences that make the bond of friendship stronger. Learning from each other, seeing each other’s point of view, not always agreeing but yet always remaining “side by side or back to back” “

Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave, Creative Directors, Baum Und Pferdgarten.

 




 

 

Tagged: artists, Baum Und Pferdgarten, Brands, East London, fashion, independent, Inspiration, Mercantile, Mercantile London, print, Spitalfields, style, trends, womans fashion